Maasai Mara

Flying over the Great Rift Valley at an altitude of 5000 ft gave an "eagles eye" view of one of the most amazing land formations on the planet. Stretching some 100 miles across there was evidence of pre-historic geothermal activity. Dormant volcanic mountains rose above table top plateaus that had been carved by streams and rivers destined for Lake Victoria. Steep escarpments on east and west sides rise 1000 feet above the valley floor below. In between, dry riverbeds and rocky terrain make living here so challenging. There is little farming, mostly livestock and herding goats. From that height the Bomas looked like miniature stick models. Surrounded by a fenced circle made of sticks and methenge brush to keep the animals safe at night, it is home to the Maasai people.

I was flying with friends associated with the Free the Children organization. CEO and Director Marc Kielbergurger was our host. The 45 minute flight from Nairobi to Bogani began what for me was a journey that opened my eyes to the work of FTC, the world's largest NGO of "children helping children through education."

We were introduced to two communities near the FTC Leadership Centre. Each contained a mix of Maasai and Kipsigis people living in harmony with each other and the land. We learned that the FTC Adopt-A-Village model was built on the four developmental pillars of education, clean water, community health and alternative income source.



The Emori Joi Community School was active with students in school and locals constructing classroom facilities. We were greeted in song and dance by staff, mamas and students. Suddenly, a powerful downdraft of rain caused a mad dash to the sanctity of the school library. There we listened to Principal Kipkoech Maritim talk about the development of the school and its impact on the surrounding community. We met with students and talked to parents and teachers and learned how through education their community had been transformed. Those who spoke only Swahili communicated through FTC Kenya Projects Director Robin Wiszowaty who in 2002 had spent the entire year living in a Maasai village. New hope to build a future for the children was the theme of every story. Then the celebration started and we all danced and sang together. What a time! Such moments of celebration and joy in life are rare.

We had the incredible privilege of visiting the shamba of Jane and Julius Marindani and their five children. Julius, also the Chair of the PTA showed us where he was planting new trees and where with the help of other farmers he would be planting onions. We entered their home, a traditional Kenyan mud structure with grass thatched roof. As our eyes became accustomed to the light, we saw first hand how a family of seven could live in an area no more than 250 square feet. A new modern dwelling was being erected close by under the supervision of mama Jane. It would have no running water or electricity; however it would be stronger, larger and more comfortable. How proud the Marindani family were of their home. I marvelled at their ingenuity and their resolve to create a happy life for themselves. They were so appreciative of the opportunity to work with Free the Children in strengthening their community.


We greeted the next morning with a hike to one of the nearby hills. Led by a Massai Warrior, we watched the sun rise over the savannah, first soft grey then an intense bright light, followed by a brilliant gold. We had to be quiet and cautious given that elephants had recently been roaming in the area. We saw evidence of zebra footprints and learned about the medicinal values of indigenous plants. Naabala told us about life as a Massai and the rituals he had to go through to become a full fledged warrior. He had already killed three lions with his spear. At age 24 he was married and finishing his degree in botany and biology at the University of Nairobi.




Our journey took us to another Free the Children school - Enerlai Primary School. I was amazed at the before and after, the old structures still standing and the newly built school. Children were learning in classrooms where a cement floor and decent furniture had replaced dirt floors, mud walls, leaky roofs and in some cases no desks or chairs to sit on. Principal Simon Chebusit showed us new facilities where a borehole had produced clean drinking water. Michelle Hambly, FTC's Health Projects Director shared her work in implementing mobile health clinics that would bring basic healthcare to the community on a scheduled basis. A lunch feeding program was in progress where students were being fed a mix of maize and beans. We left with the sense that Free the Children had it right. Without government intervention or support, a community was changing. There was renewed hope through education.

Flying back to Nairobi I left behind a world that had changed my life. It brought to mind the saying I once heard: "Live a simple life so that others might simply live." The encounter I had with these incredible Kenyans brought about this reflection:

Mara Rain

Ominous sky south-east of Bogani
As we head for Emori Joi Primary School
Mara braces for the inevitable onslought
Swirling stormclouds oblivious to the celebrants below.

Without warning the heavens open
Like a pack of hyenas hellbent on mischief it descends
Surrounding hills disappear in the torrential beating
Goats bolt while livestock face downwind without flinching
In full flight we enter the sanctity of the Emori Joi library.

Rain creates a delirious din,
Bouncing off the tin roof like deranged dancers!

Dry and light-hearted, we dance together
Mzungu, Maasai and Kipsigi celebrate life
Differences morph to a higher plane
Where language and culture matter not.

The power of nature envelops this place
Where "Karibu" shapes the heart;
In this moment of time we see more clearly.

Where there is hope-there is healing;

Humbled, we bow in reverence.